Serving Greater Jackson

Skylight Installation

New and replacement skylights, deck- or curb-mounted, flashed into the roof with the right kit so they let in light, not water.

Jackson Elite Roofing handles skylight installation in Jackson, NJ, serving surrounding cities including Vista Center, Cedar Glen West, Leisure Knoll, Leisure Village West and Plumsted. Because we are roofers first, we treat a skylight as a hole in the roof that has to be framed, flashed and waterproofed properly, not as a window that happens to point at the sky.

In more than 20 years of roofing, the skylight leaks we have traced almost always came from the same few causes: improvised flashing, a poorly sealed curb or a unit that had simply outlived its seals. Our installations are built around avoiding those failures.

We install new skylights, replace old ones and reflash existing units during roof replacements. Every job is quoted on a written scope that lists the unit, framing, flashing and interior finish work separately.

Choosing a Skylight

A new skylight being flashed into the rear slope of a Jackson Township colonial.

Fixed and Venting Skylights

Fixed skylights do not open and simply bring in daylight, which makes them the least expensive and most weather-tight option. Venting skylights open manually or with a motor, letting hot air and moisture escape, which is especially useful in kitchens, bathrooms and upstairs rooms that run warm in summer. Many venting models include rain sensors that close them automatically when the weather turns.

Deck-Mounted and Curb-Mounted Skylights

Deck-mounted skylights sit directly on the roof deck with a low profile and are designed to work with the manufacturer’s step flashing kit. Curb-mounted skylights sit on a raised wooden curb built on the roof, which is often the better choice on low-slope roofs and when replacing an old curb-mounted unit. We recommend the type that suits your roof’s pitch and the existing opening.

Tubular Skylights

Tubular skylights use a small dome on the roof and a reflective tube to carry daylight into hallways, closets and bathrooms where a full skylight would not fit. The roof opening is small and the installation is simpler, but the flashing still has to be done properly. They are a good way to bring light into interior rooms without a light shaft.

Placement, Framing and Light Shafts

Where a Skylight Should Go

Placement affects both the light you get and how much heat the skylight brings in. South- and west-facing slopes bring in the most sun and the most heat, while north-facing slopes give steadier, cooler light. On Jackson lots shaded by tall pines, we look at where the trees fall across the roof, so a new skylight is not hidden under shade or buried in needles.

Framing the Roof Opening

Most skylights are sized to fit between standard rafter spacing, which avoids cutting structural members. Larger units may require cutting a rafter and adding headers to carry the load around the opening. Because a new opening changes the roof framing, we confirm with the local construction office whether a permit is required before cutting into the roof.

Light Shafts Through the Attic

In rooms with a flat ceiling and an attic above, a light shaft carries daylight from the skylight down to the ceiling. The shaft is framed, insulated and finished with drywall, and it can be straight or flared to spread the light wider. Insulating the shaft properly prevents condensation and heat loss through its walls.

Flashing and Keeping Skylights Dry

Manufacturer Flashing Kits

Skylight manufacturers design flashing kits for their units, including step flashing for the sides and head and sill pieces that lap with the shingles. We use those kits rather than improvising with sheet metal and sealant, because the kit is engineered to shed water around that specific frame. Improvised flashing is the most common cause of the skylight leaks we are called to repair.

Ice and Water Barrier Around the Opening

Before the skylight goes in, we line the opening and the surrounding deck with self-adhering ice and water barrier, turned up the sides of the curb or frame. That gives the opening a second layer of protection if wind-driven rain or an ice dam ever pushes water past the flashing. It is a small step that makes a large difference on north slopes where snow lingers.

Condensation Versus Leaks

Water on the inside of a skylight is not always a leak. Warm, humid indoor air can condense on cold glass in winter, especially in bathrooms and kitchens, and drip down the shaft. Better ventilation, a venting skylight or modern insulated glazing usually solves condensation, and we check for it before assuming the flashing has failed.

Replacing Old Skylights

Signs a Skylight Needs Replacing

Fogging between the glass panes, cracked or yellowed acrylic domes, rotting curbs and repeated leaks after reflashing are signs a skylight is at the end of its life. Older units also lose a great deal of heat compared with modern low-emissivity glazing. We tell you whether resealing or reflashing is worth doing or whether replacement is the better value.

Skylights With a New Roof

A roof replacement is the ideal time to replace or reflash skylights, because the surrounding shingles and flashing are already being removed. Replacing an older skylight at that point avoids disturbing the new roof a few years later. Our roof scopes list each skylight as its own line, so you can decide unit by unit.

Removing a Skylight You No Longer Want

Some homeowners would rather close up an old skylight than replace it, especially one that has leaked repeatedly or overheats a room. We remove the unit, frame and deck the opening to match the surrounding roof, and shingle it in so it disappears from the outside. Inside, the opening is closed with insulation and drywall, ready for paint, and the room is left with a normal ceiling.

Skylights in Townhouses and 55+ Communities

In townhouse developments and 55+ communities, the roof and anything cut into it may be the association’s responsibility, and many associations control exterior changes. Before quoting a new or replacement skylight in one of these communities, we check the association’s documents to see who owns the roof and whether the board must approve the work. That keeps you from paying for a skylight the association later asks you to remove.

  • 20+ Years in Business
  • Free Written Estimates
  • Attic Checked on Every Leak Call

Good to know

Frequently Asked Questions

Do skylights always leak eventually?

No. Most skylight leaks come from flashing that was improvised, a curb that was not sealed into the roof properly or an old unit whose seal has failed. A skylight installed with the manufacturer's flashing kit and ice and water barrier around the opening should stay dry for the life of the roof.

Should I replace my skylight when I replace my roof?

If the skylight is old, fogged between the panes or has leaked before, yes. Replacing it with the roof costs less than coming back later, because the shingles and flashing around it are already off. A skylight in good condition can be reflashed into the new roof instead.

What is the difference between a curb-mounted and a deck-mounted skylight?

A deck-mounted skylight sits directly on the roof deck with a low profile and an integrated flashing kit. A curb-mounted skylight sits on a raised wooden frame built on the roof, which suits low-slope roofs and many replacement situations. Both work well when flashed correctly.

Can a skylight go in a room without an attic above it?

Yes. Rooms with cathedral or vaulted ceilings are often the easiest, because the skylight opens straight into the room. Rooms under an attic need a light shaft built through the attic, which adds framing and drywall work but lets daylight reach an ordinary flat ceiling.

Will a skylight make the room too hot?

It can if the glazing and placement are wrong. Low-emissivity glass, built-in or added shades and a venting skylight that lets hot air escape all help, and a skylight on a north-facing or shaded slope brings in steady light with less heat.

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